Celine’s Spring 2019 show, a pivotal moment in the brand's history under Hedi Slimane's creative direction, wasn't just a collection; it was a statement. It marked a decisive break from Phoebe Philo's minimalist aesthetic and a bold embrace of Slimane's signature style – a lean, rock-and-roll infused silhouette that resonated deeply with a specific audience, while simultaneously alienating others. The show, held at the historic Les Invalides in Paris, felt less like a presentation and more like a declaration of intent, a visual manifesto that laid out Slimane's vision for the future of Celine.
The collection itself started precisely where Slimane’s final Saint Laurent show left off. The same sharp tailoring, the same emphasis on lean lines and androgynous silhouettes, the same darkly romantic palette were all present. However, the context was different. Saint Laurent, with its established history of glamorous excess, provided a counterpoint to Slimane's sharp tailoring. Celine, previously known for its understated elegance and sophisticated minimalism under Philo, offered a stark contrast. This juxtaposition proved to be a key element in the ensuing critical discourse surrounding the collection.
The models, often sporting slicked-back hair and minimal makeup, walked with an almost defiant air. The clothes themselves were predominantly black and white, punctuated with occasional bursts of colour – deep reds, vibrant blues – that only served to highlight the overall monochrome aesthetic. The collection featured an array of sharply tailored jackets, slim-fitting trousers, and sleek dresses, all characterized by their clean lines and precise cuts. The signature Slimane touch was evident in the perfectly proportioned silhouettes, the emphasis on the waist, and the overall feeling of understated yet powerful sophistication. This was not the relaxed, languid elegance of Philo's Celine; this was a collection that demanded attention, a collection that exuded confidence and a certain rebellious energy.
The accessories played a crucial role in solidifying the collection's overall aesthetic. Slender heeled boots, often in black leather, complemented the sharp lines of the clothing. Small, structured handbags added a touch of refined practicality, while the jewelry was minimal and understated, allowing the clothing to take center stage.
The reaction to the Celine Spring 2019 show was, predictably, divided. Those who appreciated Slimane's distinct style found the collection a welcome departure from the more muted tones of the past, praising its sharp tailoring, its confident aesthetic, and its undeniable sense of cool. They saw it as a bold and necessary reinvention of a brand that had become somewhat predictable. For them, the show was a triumph, a powerful statement of Slimane's singular vision.
However, a significant portion of the fashion community, including many loyal followers of Philo's Celine, voiced strong criticism. They felt that the collection lacked the intellectual depth and quiet sophistication that had defined the brand's previous era. The stark minimalism, while undeniably stylish, was viewed by some as cold and lacking in emotional resonance. The absence of the more relaxed, wearable pieces that characterized Philo's designs was also a source of disappointment for many. The overall aesthetic was seen by some as a jarring departure from the brand's established identity, a betrayal of its core values.
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